Lining the winding streets, the stone and concrete, chunky casas of Boca de Camarioca, one and two stories in height mostly, are homes for some 7
,000 people, and vacation stays for folks like us. Nestled along the northeast coast on a big little river between Matanzas and Varadero, about an hour east of Havana, this quaint town transported us back in time. Back to a time when chickens scratched in roadside dirt, folks rocked on front stoops, dogs napped in the road, neighbors chatted over side fences, and laundry flapped on ropes like colorful navigation flags. To add to the magical mix of old and new that is modern Cuba, horse-drawn carts and buggies transport workers, tourists, produce for sale, garbage, building materials, and children to and from school. Passing vendors sing out their wares——“Pan suave!” “Galletes!” “Pina fresca!”
I loved rushing down the stairs to buy fresh and inexpensive produce: papaya, pineapple, cabbage, tomatoes, onion, garlic, peppers, lettuce, and a taro root vegetable called Cubans call malanga (I think). We listened every morning for "Pan suave!" and I would rush down to buy fresh bread and queso. I was ridiculously delighted with my purchases, but I never did remember to take a bag with me.
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Eating on the cheap, but not suffering! |
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Our main living space |
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Lovely bathroom |
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Workable kitchen |
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Private bath off the bedroom |
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Nice interior, but I spent most of my casa time out here! |
At the far east bend of Boca’s coast-hugging lane, we found our casa particular, “Casa Bella Vista,” well-named for the beautiful view of beach and sea from this clean and comfortable 2nd story apartment. We loved the view, the sun, the sound of the surf, and the parade of pedestrians and curiosities flowing below our terrace.
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Look carefully and you'll see the morning garbage collector with his wheel barrow. |
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Spear fishermen returning. |
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One of several jeeps taking tourists on an
adventure to little Boca de Camarioca.
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We attempted snorkeling at the beach only a few hundred feet away, but the wind and waves had stirred up sediment making it difficult to see, and stirred up my anxiety. I decided I need clearer water and gentler waves to feel comfortable snorkeling.
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Why we wear water shoes |
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The little playa in front of our casa |
There’s a small park just at the west side of the river where townsfolk and tourists can connect to wifi, logging on with a small card—- if the system isn’t down or overloaded. It’s common in many big public city parks across Cuba to see dozens of people hunched over their devices. There are more than 350 public wifi spots across Cuba, with more than 50 in Havana. Even little Boca has one. All wifi spots are operated by ETECSA. The cards cost 1.50 CUC apiece and allow one hour of connectivity.
In Boca de Camarioca the scene is much enhanced by the incongruity of horse-drawn transportation clop-clopping in the background.
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Many children travelled to school on horse-drawn carts like this, but also on bicycles and electric scooters. |
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Not too many people on the park benches in the morning, but the streets were bustling
as folks headed for work and children for school.
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Boca has the added advantage of proximity to Varadero—- a story for anoth
er post.
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Nightly aerial display over our terrace |
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Good night little pueblo |
Continue to "Varadero: la Ultima Playa"
http://mycubadream.blogspot.com/2018/02/varadero-la-ultima-playa.html
I love the look of this place. Let's go back!
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