The first tour had started and ended late, so we ended up with 13 minutes for a super speedy shower (me) before meeting Alfonso at the entrance to our building. Oh, how we appreciated that service! We climbed into his car, a Russian “Maravich?” and were off, thoroughly enjoying the sights and conversation along the way with Alfonso, a twenty-two year old student of history and the tourism industry.
Highlights of our journey...
Castillo de la Real Fuerza, an antiquity that houses a maritime museum replete with numerous finely crafted models of many ships that sailed and sunk in the waters around Cuba, as well as artifacts and treasure—-yes, gold and silver—- brought up from the deep. The 4 meter long model of Santisima Trinidad, a ship built in Havana in the 1760s that fought at the Battle of Trafalgar, was absolutely stunning!
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| Santisima Trinidad |
Castillo de los Tres Santos Reyes Magnos del Morro, or El Morro for short, high on a rocky bluff on the east side of Havana harbor, is a massive fortress that was part of a triangular defense system created to protect Havana (and Spanish gold) from marauding pirates and foreign invaders. Many rooms were closed to us on this particular day, but I did not regret for a moment our 6 CUC each entrance fee. We loved learning about this fort, erected between 1589 and 1630, with its 3m thick walls and deep, dry protective moat, and wind and wave-smashed lighthouse. 
Centuries ago, as Spain plundered the Caribbean, collecting the spoils in La Habana for twice-yearly shipments to the Old Country, the importance of this fort protecting the entrance to the harbor cannot be overstated. It has great historical significance and offers breathtaking views of the wind-whipped Atlantic, boats and ships entering and exiting the harbor, and the dreamy shoreline of Havana: the industrial portion, Old Havana, Centro, and in the distance the tall buildings of Vedado, all wrapped round by the sea.
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| Flags of many nations |
We were lucky to get to see inside the lighthouse. The cheerful lighthouse keeper showed us the cubbies containing flags from the many nations of the world whose ships enter the inner harbor. When a ship is entering the harbor, the keeper hoists the appropriate flag. The United States flag is neatly folded in one of those cubbies.
The view out to sea was stunning. We happened to be up in the lighthouse when a cruise ship departed. Such a contrast of old and new!
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| View to sea from the lighthouse window as the cruise ship departs Havana. |
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| Revolution-era anti-aircraft gun |
The ancient guns and gun mounts are rough and rusty. There were many of these on the ramparts of El Morro. Many are severely corroded from their exposure to salt and sea air.
Goodbye, El Morro! We waited, warm but waning sun, for Alfonso to bring the car. On to the next stop...
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| Craig and Alfonso, remains of US U-2 spy plane in background |
Memorial to the Cuban Missile Crisis on the outskirts of the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana, second of Havana’s two largest forts. There we saw a Soviet Mig-21 jet, an anti-aircraft missile launcher of the same specifications as that used to shoot down the U-2 US spy plane in 1962, and some of the shredded remains of that plane. It was fascinating to hear from Alfonso about the intense fear in Cuba of US aggression during that tense time following the Bay of Pigs invasion by US-backed Cuban mercenaries in 1961.
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| The site was closed for the day, so this was as close as we could get to the spy plane. |
Havana Christ, a giant statue fashioned from Italian Carrera marble, is an imposing figure looking out over the harbor. From this vantage we had a jaw-dropping view of Havana at sunset.
Sigh...
Sigh...
At last, it was time to go home to our fifth floor Havana Centro apartment and say goodbye to Alfonso. What a wonderful experience!
Alfonso is an astute student of history, knowledgeable and insightful. We enjoyed our discussions about the different historical interpretations of past events. We appreciated his emphasis on verifiable facts and his insight into aspects of ambiguity. You'll find wonderful photos and much historical information on his blog at: havanatraces.wordpress.com. Alfonso's tours are offered through Airbnb, including his newest, The Golden Mile.
I am convinced that Cubans, in general, know more about the United States, our values, culture and history than US citizens know about Cubans and their values, culture and history. Perhaps as more US citizens learn about and travel to Cuba we can develop the political will to put aside the past fifty years of tension and distrust and extend a hand of friendship.
Continue to "Boca de Camarioca"
http://mycubadream.blogspot.com/2018/02/boca-de-camarioca.html
Also, those interested in further reading may want to visit the architect Patrick McGrew's 2012 article in Artbound: https://www.linktv.org/shows/artbound/a-california-architect-visits-cuba
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